| Author |
 Topic  |
|
onesasquatch
Newbie
17 Posts |
|
|
JAC
Needs a life...
149 Posts |
 Posted - 27/06/2002 : 16:47:28
|
| After washing, dip your film in a bath of "wetting-agent" solution, which will break the water's surface tension and prevent drops. Then squeegee as usual. Several brands are available, but let's support the people who support this forum. ILFOTOL, by Ilford, is available on-line at BH Photo/Video in NYC for $7.95 per litre of stock solution. Dilute it according to label directions in VERY clean water, distilled if you have it. Take the film out of the hangers and off the reels before puting into the agent, as it tends to accumulate on this equipment over time. Regards, John |
 |
|
|
onesasquatch
Newbie
17 Posts |
|
|
PeterG
Old Hand
44 Posts |
|
|
mdjohnsonphoto
Hero
1186 Posts |
|
|
glennfromwy
Hero
672 Posts |
Posted - 29/06/2002 : 01:58:48
|
| If you have hard water or sediment, give a final rinse (or two) in distilled water. If using a squeegee, as I do, make sure the rubber blades meet evenly when you close them. Most do not. A properly functioning squeegee will leave no water on the film surface, hence no spots. Also, be absolutely sure that the sqeegee is spotlessly clean! I don't use a wetting agent and even with a bad hard water problem, rarely do I get a water spot. Good luck--------- |
|
|
|
JAC
Needs a life...
149 Posts |
Posted - 29/06/2002 : 01:59:56
|
| Michael - You must be almost as old as I am! I was taught that trick forty years ago by an old-timer who used to print 120 negatives of horseraces WET to make the Chicago newspaper evening edition. You're right - it works great! Regards, John |
|
|
|
DavidC
Newbie
1 Posts |
Posted - 08/08/2002 : 18:42:13
|
| I use distilled water in two ways. After washing thoroughly, I soak the film in distilled water for a minute or two. The reason for this is that hard water has dissolved minerals in solution. During the washing phase, some of those minerals will make their way into the film emulsion. While soaking in the distilled water, most of these minerals will be pulled back out of the emulsion into the distilled water until equilibrium is achieved. At this point there is very little of the dissolved minerals left in the film emulsion. This soaking step is important because otherwise some of those minerals will come out of the emulsion during the drying process and will be deposited on the surface of the film. Now I take the film from the reel and attach clips to the ends. Just before hanging the film to dry, I pour fresh distilled water down both sides of the film strip to remove those last few stubborn pieces of dust. I never use photo flo and I never, never touch the wet film with my fingers or a squegee and using the method described above I also never have water spots and only very rarely do I get a piece of dust imbedded in the film. Hope this helps. David |
|
|
|
onesasquatch
Newbie
17 Posts |
Posted - 13/08/2002 : 22:58:39
|
| Thanks for the advice David, I'll try it next time. I think I found out what was causing the rings on my prints. I have a Durst enlardger with a glass plate in the negative carrier. This plate must be causing the rings as it touches the shiny side of the negative. I wasnt sure what it was until I printed two of the same prints from the same negative without moving the negative. The rings were slightly different in placement on the two prints. All this time I've been kicking myself as to what I've been doing wrong with my film. We dont have hard water here but just the same I will soak my film in distilled water - cant hurt. Bijan |
|
|
|
mdjohnsonphoto
Hero
1186 Posts |
|
|
glennfromwy
Hero
672 Posts |
Posted - 14/08/2002 : 01:43:53
|
| Sounds like what is known as Newton's Rings. Anti Newton's Ring glass can be purchased for your negative carrier and should solve the problem. |
|
|
|
musketeer
Newbie
8 Posts |
Posted - 07/09/2002 : 23:18:53
|
| just another simple splution to hard water. head on over to the local wall-mart, home depot lowes. or whatever homesupply you have near you. for about $20-$50 dolars you can get a water purifier that goes on your faucet. change the filter every 3 months and no more particles in the emulsion. |
|
|
|
DMAXPlus
Newbie
1 Posts |
Posted - 18/12/2002 : 00:11:13
|
Reference Water Spots: I always used distilled water
for mixing ALL chemistry for negative development, including wetting agent. After processing, wash fim normally, with a hypo-reducing agent, was or rinse a few moments in fresh distilled water, and then soak fim for at least one minute in wetting agent solution. Hang to dry - NEVER use fingers, chamois, squeegee etc. - too much danger of scratching the soft emulsion. Also, no hair-driers as they can easily pick up ambient dust particles and imbed them in your film. |
|
|
|
mdjohnsonphoto
Hero
1186 Posts |
|
|
jcurtis
Newbie
14 Posts |
Posted - 19/12/2002 : 16:17:57
|
| Use distilled water with a wetting agent. I use about 1/4 of the amount the manufacturer suggests. Then I squeege my negatives by running the film between my fingers. |
|
|
|
Bri
Newbie
United Kingdom
10 Posts |
Posted - 11/02/2005 : 18:12:28
|
Its quite difficult to get hold of distilled water these days due to the energy consumed in the processand the availability of suitable low cost substitutes such as deionised/purified water.
However even with purified water I have still had very bad drying marks form one night when I had to use just purified water as final wash. Yep would you, believe it I bought fresh chem s from Jessops, deved the film opened my 'new' wetting agent to find it had already been opened and was *very* contaminated. I've rewashed the film since etc but the original drying marks still persist. And I did get fresh chems cos sit was a one off shoot that can never be re shot. I do however think the emulsion (HIE) was part of the problem. Tetchy thing that it is.
Anyway hoping for Ilford input on this one...how many times can a film be passed through a wet / dry cycle? I'm developing rolls and sheets one or two at a time. Using purified water as final wash each time is relatively expensive. Plus steaming up the bathroom for each too. Would it be damaging to process as normal, use std water with wetting agent as final wash. Dry the film but don't file it. Wait till you get more film in the same state (all deved and washed and dried) to mix up a larger quantity of purified water and wetting agent to re wet and give THE final wash. |
Edited by - Bri on 11/02/2005 18:34:36 |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
Water Marks
